Trip Code: EXB
Mt. Baruntse (7129 metres) lies in the heart of the Khumbu massif -- just west of the 8,000 meter giant Makalu and slightly east of Lhotse and Everest. High Magazine's 'Mountain Info' claims Baruntse has become "the most coveted 7,000m peak in Nepal".
Surrounded by Himalayan giants, Baruntse is one of the most accessible 7000 meter peaks that can also claim a high summit success rate. It features a relatively "easy" route which can be safely guided by our Sherpa guides. As in all expeditions, our team of climbing Sherpas will provide expert guidance and perfect preparation allowing climbers to focus on acclimatization and getting stronger.
The South-East Ridge (our guided route) is a straightforward snow climb with some steep sections of ice up to 50.° There is a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters which will require fixed ropes. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced and will also require fixed ropes. The safest time to climb Baruntse is in the spring when snow conditions are best. The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Hongu valley, one of the most wild and beautiful regions in Nepal. You hike northward through a prisitne alpine environment that rarely sees outside visitors. The walk passes through ancient Sherpa country providing breath taking views as well as time to safely acclimate.
The Baruntse base camp is at an altitude of around 5400m. Nearby are the pristine lakes below Amphu Labtsa pass. The climbing route follows a long ridge leading to the steep summit.
With its incredible views and location, Baruntse is certain to be a rewarding adventure for any climber wishing to surpass the 7000 meter zone. Those whose ultimate desire is to pursure 8000 meter peaks, may consider this climb the ideal preparation for 8000 meter goals.
Note: It is possible to complete the climb in a shorter duration than our suggested itinerary. however due to the remoteness, we must allow a few days extra to avoid bad weather during the climb.
A challenging climb on the South - East Ridge. Snow and Ice climbing up to 50 Degree's elevation with a prominent ice cliff near the summit. There is risk of avalanche. Enjoy spectacular views of Mt.Makalu & Mt. Kanchenjunga from the summit, Spring season is the best season for safe climbing.